What is a Retinoid?

In the world of skincare, retinoids have long been hailed as a powerhouse ingredient, celebrated for their ability to address a myriad of skin concerns. From reducing fine lines and wrinkles to combating acne and promoting an overall youthful complexion, they have become a staple in many skincare routines. But have you ever wondered exactly what is a retinoid? Or how these magical elixirs work their wonders on our skin? In this blog post, we'll delve into the science behind retinoids and uncover the secrets of their efficacy.

What do retinoids do?

Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A, a crucial nutrient for maintaining healthy skin. Within the umbrella term "retinoids," there are various forms, including retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene. Each of these compounds plays a unique role in skincare, but they all share a common mechanism of action.

Whether retinol, retinaldehyde, or prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene, each retinoid shares a common mechanism of action.

How do retinoids work?

At the heart of the retinoid phenomenon lies a microscopic ballet within our skin cells. Retinoids communicate with these cells on a molecular level, targeting specific receptors known as retinoic acid receptors (RARs) and retinoid X receptors (RXRs). Picture these receptors as molecular gatekeepers, ready to unlock a cascade of transformative events.

  1. Binding and Receptor Activation

When retinoids, whether in the form of retinol or prescription-strength compounds, come into contact with the skin, they seek out these receptors like a key fitting into a lock. The binding of retinoids to RARs and RXRs triggers a molecular rearrangement, activating these receptors and setting the cellular stage for change.

2. Gene Expression Regulation

This activation sets in motion a series of events that influence gene expression. Think of it as retinoids whispering instructions to the cells, guiding them on how to function more effectively. The retinoid-receptor complex acts as a transcription factor, binding to specific DNA sequences in the regulatory regions of genes. This, in turn, either enhances or inhibits the transcription of various target genes.

3. Accelerating Cell Turnover

What a retinoid is able to do in the cell turnover arena is remarkable. They accelerate the process, which means that old, tired skin cells are shed more rapidly, making way for new, vibrant cells to take their place. The result? Smoother, more radiant skin that reflects the vibrancy of youth.

4. Collagen Boosting for Firmness

Collagen, the structural protein that provides firmness and elasticity to the skin, is a key player in the retinoid story. These compounds stimulate the production of collagen, helping to combat the natural decline that occurs with aging. The result is skin that appears plumper and more resilient, with the telltale signs of wrinkles and fine lines visibly reduced.

5. Addressing Acne and Inflammation

For those grappling with acne, retinoids are a formidable ally. By regulating cell turnover and reducing inflammation, these compounds prevent the formation of clogged pores, resulting in clearer, healthier skin. Whether it's the over-the-counter retinol or prescription-strength tretinoin, retinoids offer versatile solutions for acne management.

Are retinoids safe?

Yes, retinoids are safe to use. ​​While they offer remarkable benefits, it's essential to use them with care to avoid potential side effects such as dryness, redness, and irritation. Start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. Always use sunscreen during the day, as retinoids can make the skin more susceptible to sun damage.

Retinoids for wrinkles

Yes, retinoids are perhaps most known for wrinkle improvement. They are widely recognized for their effectiveness in addressing wrinkles and other signs of aging. The primary mechanism through which retinoids combat wrinkles is by promoting skin renewal and collagen production that we talked more about earlier.

Do retinoids help acne?

Yes! Retinoids, derived from vitamin A, are renowned for their efficacy in treating acne. These compounds work by regulating cell turnover, preventing the buildup of dead skin cells and reducing the formation of clogged pores, which are primary contributors to acne development. Additionally, retinoids possess anti-inflammatory properties that help alleviate redness and swelling associated with acne lesions. By stimulating collagen production, they aid in the healing process, minimizing the appearance of acne scars.

What are the best retinoids?

What is the right retinoid for you depends on your specific skin concerns, preferences, and tolerance levels. Here are some of the commonly used and well-regarded retinoids:

  • Tretinoin: Tretinoin is a potent prescription retinoid (and our personal fav) widely recognized for its effectiveness in treating acne and promoting skin renewal. It is also prescribed for addressing fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Tretinoin is available in various strengths, and a healthcare professional can recommend the most suitable concentration based on individual needs. (Pssst… you can get your Tretinoin prescription online with Dear Brightly.)
  • Adapalene: Adapalene is another prescription retinoid used primarily for acne treatment. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and effectiveness in preventing the formation of new acne lesions.
  • Tazarotene: Tazarotene is a prescription retinoid that is particularly effective in treating acne, psoriasis, and certain skin conditions. It is available in various formulations and concentrations, and a dermatologist can recommend the most appropriate option based on an individual's skin concerns.
  • Retinol: Retinol is an over-the-counter retinoid that is milder compared to prescription-strength options. It is commonly found in various skincare products, including creams, serums, and moisturizers. Popular for its anti-aging benefits, retinol can help improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and promote a more youthful appearance.
  • Retinaldehyde: Positioned between retinol and prescription retinoids in terms of potency, retinaldehyde is available in some over-the-counter products. It is a relatively effective option for those seeking a balance between mildness and efficacy.

Our favorite: Tretinoin

What retinoid is the creme de la creme? Tretinoin is one of the most effective retinoids, and its reputation as the "gold standard" in topical retinoid therapy is backed by extensive scientific research and clinical evidence. Combining tretinoin benefits with niacinamide, our Night Shift product prevents and treats wrinkles, pigmentation, uneven skin tone, enlarged pores, and acne while calming redness, reducing the appearance of big pores, preventing moisture loss and dehydration, and brightening the skin. Whew – it’s a lot to say because that’s a lot to do!

It's important to note that the best retinoid for an individual depends on their skin type, concerns, and sensitivity. Starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing it can help minimize potential side effects such as redness, dryness, and irritation. Additionally, it's advisable to consult with a dermatologist or skin care professional to determine the most suitable retinoid for your specific needs and to ensure proper usage.

In the world of skincare, retinoids stand as a testament to the power of science in addressing a variety of skin concerns. By understanding their mechanisms of action, you can make informed decisions about incorporating these potent ingredients into your skincare routine. Whether you're targeting fine lines, acne, or uneven skin tone, retinoids might just be the secret weapon your skin has been seeking. Embrace the science, unlock the potential, and let your skin radiate with the transformative effects of retinoids.

Why Is Tretinoin Prescription Only?

In the world of skincare, one ingredient has gained widespread acclaim for its remarkable ability to transform skin texture and appearance – Tretinoin. Commonly known as Retin-A, this derivative of vitamin A has become a staple in dermatological treatments for acne, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. However, you might have noticed Tretinoin isn’t available in drug store aisles or beauty stores. Why is Tretinoin prescription only? In this blog post, we explore the reasons behind the restricted access and delve into the significance of obtaining Tretinoin under the guidance of a healthcare professional.

Do you need a prescription for Tretinoin?

Yes, in most countries Tretinoin is a prescription-strength medication. You typically need a prescription from a healthcare professional like a dermatologist to obtain it. This is due to the potency of Tretinoin and the potential for side effects if not used properly.

Prescription ensures the medication is appropriate for your specific skin concerns, and it allows a healthcare professional to guide you on the correct usage, dosage, and potential side effects. Additionally, healthcare providers can take into account your medical history and any other medications you may be taking to avoid potential interactions or adverse effects.

Attempting to use Tretinoin without a prescription or guidance from a healthcare professional is not recommended, as it may lead to misuse, increased risk of side effects, and could be harmful to your skin. If you are interested in using Tretinoin, it's advisable to consult with a healthcare professional who can assess your skin's needs and provide appropriate guidance. (No time for a doctor’s appointment? Don’t worry, Dear Brightly can connect you with a derm online).

What medications can negatively interact with Tretinoin?

It's crucial to inform your healthcare provider about all your medications, both prescription and over the counter.

Potency and potential side effects of Tretinoin 

Tretinoin is a potent retinoid that exerts its effects by promoting skin cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. While this makes it a powerful tool against acne and aging, it also increases the likelihood of adverse reactions. When you’re wondering, Why is tretinoin prescription only?, this is a major reason why Tretinoin is prescription only. Its strength necessitates careful supervision to tailor the dosage and frequency according to your skin type.

What are the potential side effects of Tretinoin?

Individualized Tretinoin treatment plans

Skin conditions vary widely and what works for one person may not be suitable for another. Dermatologists play a crucial role in assessing the unique needs and conditions of each patient, devising personalized treatment plans that may include Tretinoin as part of a comprehensive approach. Prescription-only access ensures that patients receive the most appropriate treatment for their specific concerns, maximizing the benefits and minimizing potential risks.

Risk of Tretinoin misuse

The accessibility of Tretinoin without a prescription could lead to misuse and overuse, as individuals might self-diagnose and self-prescribe without proper guidance. This poses a significant risk, as using Tretinoin inappropriately can exacerbate skin issues, cause severe irritation, and even result in long-term damage. By keeping Tretinoin behind the prescription counter, healthcare professionals can monitor its use and guide patients through the potential challenges of incorporating it into their skincare routines.

Pregnancy considerations for Tretinoin 

When you think of the question, Why is tretinoin prescription only?, understand that it's for more than just a single potential user. Tretinoin is known to have potential risks during pregnancy, as excessive vitamin A intake may harm fetal development. To safeguard against unintended exposure, especially in women of childbearing age, dermatologists carefully assess a patient's medical history and provide appropriate guidance. Tretinoin being prescription only ensures that healthcare providers can advise on alternative treatments or suitable precautions for those planning or already in pregnancy.

How to get a Tretinoin prescription in-person

Obtaining a Tretinoin prescription involves consulting with a healthcare professional, usually a dermatologist or general practitioner. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to get a Tretinoin prescription with a traditional in-person visit:

  1. Schedule an Appointment

Reach out to your primary care physician or a dermatologist to schedule a consultation. Some healthcare providers may offer telemedicine appointments, making the process more convenient.

     2. Prepare for the Appointment

Make a list of your current skincare routine, including any products or medications you're using. Document your skin concerns and goals, such as acne, fine lines, or hyperpigmentation. Be ready to discuss any previous experiences with skincare treatments, including retinoids.

     3. Consultation with the Healthcare Professional

During the appointment, your healthcare provider will assess your skin condition and discuss your concerns. Be honest about your skincare habits, any allergies, and your medical history, including pregnancy plans if applicable.

     4. Discussion about Tretinoin

If your healthcare provider determines that Tretinoin is a suitable option for your skin concerns, they will discuss the benefits, potential side effects, and proper usage instructions. They may also consider other treatment options based on your individual needs.

     5. Prescription Issued

If Tretinoin is deemed appropriate, your healthcare provider will issue a prescription. They may start you on a lower concentration to minimize potential side effects and gradually increase it as needed.

     6. Pharmacy Visit

Take the prescription to a pharmacy to have it filled. Ensure you understand the instructions for use and any precautions mentioned by your healthcare provider.

    7. Follow-Up Appointments

Your healthcare provider may schedule follow-up appointments to monitor your progress, adjust the treatment plan, and address any concerns or side effects.

How do you get a prescription for Tretinoin? 

Now that you know the answer to the question Why is tretinoin prescription only? and the standard way to get a prescription, let’s talk about the path of least resistance. After all, we know you’re busy. You can get a Tretinoin prescription online safely, quickly, and easily with Dear Brightly and our partnered healthcare professionals. Our trained dermatologists can help you in just a matter of minutes.

  1. Share your skin goals

No need for an in-person visit to the dermatologist. Share details about your skin with one of our dermatologists and upload photos on our secure telehealth portal.

     2. Our doctors tailor your formula

You are unique and your skin is too. A doctor will review your profile and tailor your derm-strength Night Shift serum to create a formula just for you.

     3. Check in with your skin coach

Like any fitness routine, retinoids work best by starting out slowly. Your provider is available at any time to check in and assess your progress.

Ready to start the Rx process

Important Tips for Using Tretinoin

Acids for Hyperpigmentation: A Comprehensive Guide to Treating Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is a common concern that can arise from various factors such as sun exposure, inflammation, or hormonal changes. For those seeking effective solutions, acids for hyperpigmentation have emerged as powerful allies. In this blog post, we'll delve into the world of acids, exploring their different types and how they can be harnessed to achieve a brighter, more even complexion.

What is hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is a dermatological condition characterized by excessive production or accumulation of melanin, the pigment responsible for the color of the skin, hair, and eyes. This condition results in darkened areas or patches on the skin, which can vary in size, shape, and intensity. 

What causes hyperpigmentation?

It can be triggered by various factors, including sun exposure, inflammation, hormonal changes, and certain medications. Sun damage is a particularly significant contributor - ultraviolet (UV) rays stimulate melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin production. Conditions such as melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and age spots are examples of hyperpigmentation disorders. 

While generally harmless, hyperpigmentation can have a significant impact on an individual's skin appearance, leading to the development of various treatments and skincare approaches aimed at managing and reducing pigmentation irregularities.

How do acids help hyperpigmentation?

Acids, when incorporated into skincare routines, work by promoting exfoliation, accelerating cell turnover, and inhibiting melanin production. These actions contribute to a more uniform skin tone and can diminish the appearance of dark spots over time.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are commonly used in skincare formulations for their exfoliating properties. These acids work by removing the outer layer of dead skin cells, facilitating the shedding of pigmented and damaged skin. They can also help stimulate collagen production, promoting a healthier and more uniform complexion. Another group of acids for hyperpigmentation, known as polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), offer similar benefits with gentle exfoliation, making them suitable for individuals with sensitive skin. Certain acids, like ascorbic acid (vitamin C), possess antioxidant properties that help mitigate oxidative stress and prevent further pigmentation issues caused by environmental factors, such as UV exposure. When used correctly, vitamin C can be a miracle worker for your skin.

How to use acids for hyperpigmentation? 

When using acids to address hyperpigmentation, it's essential to start with a gradual and cautious approach to prevent irritation and sensitivity. Regular and consistent use of acids, combined with a well-rounded skincare routine, can contribute to a more even and radiant complexion over time.


Which acid is best for hyperpigmentation? 

The short answer: (as always) it depends on your skin type and specific needs. Some acids are stronger than others, while others are better if you have sensitive skin. The top acids for hyperpigmentation include glycolic acid, lactic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid, and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C). 


Like we mentioned above, it may be beneficial to consult with a dermatologist to determine the most suitable acid for your specific skin concerns and conditions. 

Glycolic Acid for Hyperpigmentation: The Brightening Star

Glycolic acid, derived from sugarcane, is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) known for its exfoliating properties. By removing dead skin cells and promoting collagen production, glycolic acid can enhance skin radiance and fade hyperpigmentation.

How to use glycolic acid for hyperpigmentation

Start by incorporating a glycolic acid product with a lower concentration, typically around 5-10%, into your skincare routine. Begin with one or two applications per week to allow your skin to acclimate. Gradually increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance. Apply the glycolic acid treatment to clean, dry skin, preferably in the evening. Follow the product instructions regarding the application time and whether it should be rinsed off or left on the skin. Don’t forget to always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day. 

Lactic Acid for Hyperpigmentation: Gentle and Hydrating

Another AHA, lactic acid, is milder than glycolic acid, making it suitable for those with sensitive skin. Lactic acid not only exfoliates but also helps retain skin moisture, contributing to a more hydrated and even complexion.

How to use lactic acid for hyperpigmentation

Just like glycolic acid, you should incorporate lactic acid into your skincare routine gradually and start with a lower concentration (5-10%) until your skin builds a tolerance. It’s best to apply to clean, dry skin in the evening. Follow product instructions and always use sunscreen during the day. 

Azelaic Acid for Hyperpigmentation: Versatile and Soothing

Azelaic acid, a dicarboxylic acid, is renowned for its ability to reduce inflammation and inhibit melanin production. This makes it a versatile option among acids for hyperpigmentation and acne-related concerns.

How to use azelaic acid for hyperpigmentation

Azelaic acid is typically found in concentrations around 10-20% rather than 5-10%. You can typically start with applying it every other day then increase to every day. You can even use it as a spot treatment for any acne. Best practices for applying other acids (i.e., at night, to clean dry skin) apply here still.

Kojic Acid for Hyperpigmentation: Nature's Lightener

Derived from fungi, kojic acid is known for its skin-lightening properties. By inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, kojic acid can help fade dark spots and promote a more balanced complexion.

How to use kojic acid for hyperpigmentation

Kojic acid is usually available in concentrations ranging from 1-4%. Typically, it is okay to start applying it once a day from the get-go, in the evening. Like azelaic acid, you can use it in localized areas if you don’t need full face hyperpigmentation treatment. Best practices for applying other acids (i.e., to clean dry skin, in conjunction with daily sunscreen) apply here still. 

Vitamin C for Hyperpigmentation: The Antioxidant Champion

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) deserves mention for its potent antioxidant properties. Vitamin C not only protects the skin from oxidative stress but also helps to brighten and even out skin tone. We’re big fans of Vitamin C at Dear Brightly, which you’ll find in our powerhouse Vitamin C and E serum, Liquid Cloak.

How to use Vitamin C for hyperpigmentation

In contrast to the other acids we discussed, Vitamin C may be best used in the mornings. Start by choosing a stable and potent vitamin C serum, typically containing L-ascorbic acid and apply a small amount to clean, dry skin. Ensure consistency in application and follow up with (you guessed it) a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to protect your skin from sun damage.

Acids for hyperpigmentation have rightfully earned their place in the realm of treatments, offering a range of options for individuals seeking to unveil a more radiant complexion. When used wisely and consistently, acids can be transformative in addressing dark spots, promoting skin renewal, and restoring a luminous, even tone. Remember to consult with a skincare professional to tailor a regimen that suits your unique needs and ensures optimal results.

Product Recommendations

Vitamin C is our personal favorite for handling hyperpigmentation issues. This powerful antioxidant is the most abundant in human skin, but we can’t synthesize it on our own. So, naturally, we created a stellar Vitamin C product. 

Liquid Cloak  

Lucky for you, Dear Brightly offers a hyperpigmentation solution, harnessing the power of Vitamin C. Liquid Cloak is our secret weapon to protecting and restoring skin. Formulated with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid, this product has maximum stability and photoprotective qualities. 

Night Shift

Vitamin C and retinoids are powerful skincare ingredients to fight photoaging, hyperpigmentation, and premature collagen degradation. If you were wondering “can you use Vitamin C with retinol?” The answer is yes. Use our retinoid cream Night Shift as part of your base for healthier skin.

The Secret to Youthful Eyes: The (Potential) Power of Eye Cream For Wrinkles

Aging is living, and that’s a beautiful thing! But as part of that process, we all start to see eye wrinkles forming—sometimes sooner than we’d like. The delicate skin around our eyes is prone to showing signs of aging, with fine lines and wrinkles becoming more prominent over time. Here’s the good news: there are steps we can take to combat the appearance of crow’s feet, droopy under eyes, dark circles, and bags. A potential tool in your skincare stash is a cream or serum with ingredients specially formulated for the eye area. In this blog post, we explore the idea of a serum or eye cream for wrinkles and how they can become a part of your skincare routine.

Why do we get eye wrinkles?

Like most things, genetics play a role in wrinkles, impacting factors like collagen production and skin elasticity. Over time, the body's natural collagen and elastin production diminishes, leading to a gradual loss of firmness and the formation of fine lines. External factors like sun exposure, pollution, and lifestyle habits accelerate collagen breakdown and contribute to the premature appearance of wrinkles. Excessive squinting and repetitive facial expressions can also play a role, causing the skin to fold and crease over time. 

Is eye cream necessary? 

Although not an essential part of your skincare routine, eye treatment has a lot of unique benefits. If you’re using derm-grade retinoids like Tretinoin on your face, your skin is already absorbing powerful anti-aging ingredients. (Asking yourself, “what is Tretinoin?” - read our comprehensive blog post on it.) However, eye creams and serums allow you to apply eye-sensitive, targeted treatment to this delicate area. It can be a good idea to incorporate an eye cream or serum if you’re worried about the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around your eyes or aren’t currently using a product that targets anti-aging.

Benefits of eye cream

Embracing eye cream for wrinkles can offer many benefits beyond the cosmetic. They are specially formulated to address the unique concerns of the eye area and often contain potent ingredients working to stimulate collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and combat other signs of aging like puffiness and dark circles.

Consistent use of an eye cream or serum can nurture the skin and prevent signs of aging that can negatively impact our complexion and confidence. 

What does eye cream do?

Eye creams are designed to be gentle, non-irritating, and lightweight, qualities that not every standard moisturizer offers. Eye creams often contain active ingredients that target specific issues related to aging. If you’re going to reach for one, look for these ingredients:

The best ingredients for eye creams

  1. Retinoids: A derivative of vitamin A, retinoids like Tretinoin are known for their ability to stimulate collagen production and promote cell turnover, which in turn reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. As mentioned before, if you’re already using a product with retinoids you’re getting the anti-aging benefits already and may not need to directly apply it to the eye area. That’s just one of many Tretinoin cream benefits.

For patients with sensitive skin, our dermatologist partner Dr. Kashlan suggests applying Vaseline to the eye area to protect the skin from irritation before using retinol or retinoids on the rest of the face. It can be helpful to use a separate serum for the eye area. Dr. Kashlan recommends using a lower-concentration retinol than you would on the rest of your face..

  1. Ceramides: Incorporating ceramides helps fortify the delicate skin around the eyes. By replenishing and reinforcing the lipid barrier, ceramides enhance the skin's ability to retain moisture and resist external aggressors.
  2. Antioxidants: Antioxidants play a pivotal role in neutralizing free radicals (unstable molecules that can cause cellular damage) and shield the delicate skin around the eyes from environmental stressors such as UV rays and pollution that contribute to the prevention of premature aging. They also promote collagen production and support skin regeneration. We recommend incorporating vitamin C and E serum for a youthful glow. Are you asking, “can you use vitamin C with retinol?” Read our blog post on the topic. 
  3. Hyaluronic Acid: This naturally occurring substance acts as a moisture magnet, attracting and retaining water molecules to ensure optimal hydration which in turn reduces the appearance of fine lines.

How to use eye cream

For optimal results, it's essential to use eye cream for wrinkles consistently and correctly. Here's a simple guide to incorporating eye treatments into your skincare routine:

  1. Cleanse: Start with a gentle cleanser to remove any makeup, dirt, or impurities from the eye area.
  2. (Optional) Eye Cream/Serum Application: Dab a small amount of eye cream or serum and gently tap it into the skin, avoiding direct contact with the eyes.
  3. Follow with Moisturizer: Apply a moisturizer suitable for your skin type to lock in the benefits of the eye treatment. Note: a gentle, non-irritating and lightweight moisturizer can be used all over, including the eye area.
  4. Sunscreen: In the morning, always finish off your skincare routine with a broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen for face to protect the delicate eye area (and the rest of your face) from UV damage.

Do you put eye cream on before or after moisturizer?

Generally, it is recommended to apply eye cream before moisturizer. After cleansing your face, dab a small amount of your chosen eye cream onto your ring finger and gently tap it around the orbital bone, avoiding direct contact with the eyes. Once the product has been absorbed, follow up with your moisturizer to lock in hydration and create a protective barrier for the rest of your face. This layered approach ensures that the products can work in synergy, catering to the unique needs of the eye area while providing overall nourishment and moisture.

How to apply eye cream

Applying any product to the eye area is a delicate ritual that, when done correctly, can yield remarkable results. Once your skin is clean and prepared, apply a small amount of your chosen eye cream/serum onto your ring finger, the gentlest finger and least likely to exert excess pressure on the delicate skin. 

Where to apply eye cream

When applying eye cream, precision is key, as the delicate skin around the eyes requires targeted care.

The goal is to cover the under-eye area and the crow's feet, ensuring the product is well-distributed for maximum effectiveness. 

When to apply eye cream

Timing is crucial when it comes to applying eye cream or serum for optimal results, and the best time(s) will depend on the key ingredients. For example, if you’re using a retinoid-based eye cream, you may only need to use it once a day (usually at night). Whether you and your derm decide it’s best to use your eye cream/serum in the morning, in the evening, or both, the general order listed below will help your eye treatment have the most impact.


Consistency is key, so apply eye cream for wrinkles as a habitual part of your skincare ritual, and watch as your eyes reflect the benefits.

What is the best eye cream for wrinkles?

An effective eye cream should have a blend of ingredients designed to address specific aging issues. Look for formulations containing retinoids like Tretinoin, renowned for stimulating collagen production and reducing fine lines. A good eye cream should be fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, and dermatologist-tested to ensure suitability for the sensitive eye area. Your skin type and specific skin concerns should guide your choice. It may be necessary to experiment in order to find the right eye cream/serum.


With the right combination of active ingredients, consistency, and a well-rounded skincare routine, you can maintain youthful and radiant eyes. So, embrace the power of eye cream for wrinkles and wait for your friends and family to ask you the secret to your glow!

Product suggestions

We know eye wrinkles can be a source of insecurity. That’s why we’ve formulated products to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even in that ultra-sensitive area. For prevention and treatment, we recommend the following Dear Brightly products.

Night Shift

Our derm-grade retinoid Night Shift is tailored to your skin and proven to prevent and treat wrinkles. It stimulates the production of collagen and doesn’t require direct application on the eye area. Instead, it works its magic through absorption. No need to irritate your eyes. 

Daily Sip

Daily Sip combines the power of Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid in one ultra-hydrating moisturizer. It's designed to work with retinoids and exfoliators plus protects your skin from harsh external factors that can cause early aging signs. 

Liquid Cloak

If you’re looking for additional collagen production, the antioxidant power in Liquid Cloak will be your best friend. With vitamin C and vitamin E, this serum protects and restores skin from photoaging (sun-caused aging) and other environmental stressors.

How to Naturally Restore Collagen in the Face with Skincare

 When it comes to your skin, collagen plays a huge role in how you visibly age over time, and for a good reason. It’s the main structural protein that both your skin and body naturally produce on its own. However as we age, our skin’s and body’s ability to produce it declines, resulting in wrinkles, sagging, thin skin, and more — so there’s no wonder why we all want to know how to restore collagen in the face. But can you naturally really restore it once you’ve already lost it? 

Fortunately, it is possible to naturally restore healthy collagen production in your face even after it’s already started to decline. But should you?

BENEFITS OF RESTORING COLLAGEN FOR THE SKIN

Diminishes and Prevents Wrinkles

As we age, the decrease in collagen production leads to the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. Restoring it helps reduce the appearance of existing wrinkles and can prevent the formation of new ones.

Helps Skin Retain Moisture

Collagen plays a role in maintaining the skin's hydration levels. By restoring it, your skin can better retain moisture, leading to improved hydration. Well-hydrated skin tends to appear plumper, more supple, and healthier.

Supports Skin Structure

Because collagen is a major component of the skin's extracellular matrix and provides structural support, your skin can start to lose its structure overtime. Restoring it helps maintain the integrity of your skin's structure for a smooth and youthful appearance.

Promotes a Firm and Bouncy Look

Collagen contributes to the firmness and elasticity of the skin. When its levels are replenished, your skin regains its firmness, resulting in a more lifted, bouncy, and youthful appearance. 

Improves Skin's Elasticity

Elasticity is the skin's ability to stretch and then return to its original shape. Collagen is a key factor in skin elasticity. Restoring it helps improve your skin's ability to stretch and bounce back, reducing sagging and promoting a more toned look.

Even if you’re not worried about wrinkles and your physical appearance, supporting healthy collagen production will always benefit the overall health of your skin. And when you’re ready to start restoring it naturally, there are skincare products that have the power to promote collagen production — but not just any skincare. 

However before we dive into our recommendations on how to restore collagen in the face, it’s helpful to understand how it serves our body and how skincare can play a crucial role in supporting its production.

WHAT IS COLLAGEN AND HOW DOES IT SUPPORT OUR SKIN?

As mentioned, collagen are types of naturally-occurring proteins found in your body that provide structure for your skin. It’s one of the major building blocks for your skin, bones, muscles, tendons, and ligaments. You can think of it like the “glue” that holds everything together which helps to maintain healthy joints and skin’s elastic nature. So you can especially thank collagen for giving you that firm, voluminous, and bouncy skin everyone starts out with. 

However, as we age, it gets harder for our body to naturally produce it which results in its breakdown and overall decline.

TIPS TO PREVENT COLLAGEN LOSS

  1. Use sunscreen daily

Protect your skin from harmful UV rays by wearing sunscreen with a high SPF daily. Sun exposure is a major contributor to collagen breakdown.

      2. Eat a balanced diet

Maintaining a healthy diet supports collagen production and overall skin health.

      3. Stay hydrated

Well-hydrated skin is more resilient and less prone to the development of fine lines and wrinkles.

      4. Quit smoking

Quitting smoking not only benefits your overall health but also helps preserve collagen and promote a healthier complexion.

      5. Limit alcohol intake

Excessive alcohol consumption can contribute to collagen depletion. Moderating your alcohol intake supports skin health and reduces the risk of premature aging.

      6. Get enough sleep

Ensure you get enough quality sleep each night. During sleep, the body undergoes repair processes, including collagen synthesis. 

       7. Manage your stress

Practice stress management techniques such as meditation, yoga, or deep breathing to support overall skin health.

WHAT DESTROYS COLLAGEN?

We know that over time our body’s natural ability to produce collagen declines, but time isn’t the only culprit. Some lifestyle habits can also contribute to a decrease in its production that will have you looking into how to restore collagen in the face.

  • Ultraviolet Rays
  • With sun exposure, those UV rays damage the skin by entering the dermis (the second and thickest layer of our skin) which causes collagen to break down faster. UV rays also carry with them damaging free radicals which result in oxidative stress that drains your healthy cells of energy.

  • Sugar and Refined Carbs 
  • These interfere with your body’s natural ability to heal itself which also impairs the collagen regeneration process.

  • Smoking
  • Smoking slows your body’s natural ability to heal wounds and result in wrinkles and sallow, sunken skin.

    Your skin naturally repairs and regenerates itself as you rest. So when you take that time away, the health of your immune system takes a hit, and with it, your natural collagen and elastin production.

    When your body’s natural fight-or-flight response diverts energy away from your skin and instead, to your other organs like your heart, brain, and lungs, it isn’t prioritizing your skin elasticity anymore. 

    FOODS THAT HELP RESTORE COLLAGEN

    Certain foods contain nutrients that support collagen production and overall skin health. Including a variety of these foods in your diet:

    Rich in vitamin C, citrus fruits like oranges, grapefruits, lemons, and limes play a crucial role in collagen synthesis.

  • Berries
  • Blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries are loaded with antioxidants that help protect the skin from free radical damage and support collagen formation.

  • Leafy greens
  • Spinach, kale, and other dark, leafy greens are excellent sources of vitamins A and C, which are essential for collagen production.

  • Bell peppers
  • Bell peppers, especially red and yellow ones, contain high levels of vitamin C, an important cofactor for collagen synthesis.

  • Tomatoes
  • Tomatoes are rich in lycopene, an antioxidant that contributes to skin health and may help protect collagen from damage.

    SUPPLEMENTS THAT HELP RESTORE COLLAGEN

    While it's essential to consult with a healthcare professional before adding any new supplements to your routine, here are some commonly recommended supplements that may help restore collagen:

  • Collagen peptides
  • Derived from collagen proteins broken down into smaller, more easily absorbed particles, this supplement is often available in powder or capsule form and may support skin elasticity and hydration.

  • Hyaluronic acid
  • Hyaluronic acid is a component of the skin that helps retain moisture. Supplements may support skin hydration and promote a plump, youthful appearance.

  • Vitamin E
  • Vitamin E is an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from free radical damage. It may contribute to overall skin health and collagen protection.

  • Zinc
  • Zinc is a mineral that plays a role in collagen synthesis and taking zinc supplements may support the body's ability to produce it.

    It's important to note that individual responses to supplements can vary, and excessive intake of certain nutrients may have adverse effects. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new supplement regimen, especially if you have underlying health conditions or are taking other medications.

    WHAT SKINCARE PRODUCTS WORK TO RESTORE COLLAGEN IN YOUR FACE?

    Ensuring you’re making healthy choices in your lifestyle and diet — the main culprit for collagen breakdown still points to good old, ‘aging’. However, if you’re wanting to restore collagen in your face, incorporating retinoids and vitamin C into your daily skincare ritual will serve as one of your best allies.

    RETINOIDS

    Retinoids serve as an excellent treatment for how to restore collagen in your face. It’s helpful to know that retinoids work as this umbrella term for Vitamin A and all of its derivative counterparts i.e. Tretinoin, Retinol, Adapalene…etc. But don’t be fooled — the term, retinoids, include both dermatologist-grade retinoids, which is what doctors prescribe, and the over-the-counter retinoids that don’t require a prescription. And as you may assume, it’s the tailored derm-grade retinoids that will be most effective in naturally restoring collagen to your face. 

    Tretinoin, the dermatologist-grade retinoid, works to stimulate collagen production and increase cell turnover. What makes it so effective is its key ingredient–retinoic acid. This star ingredient is the reason that retinoids tend to be 20 times more potent than retinol which will ultimately provide faster, more effective results. It’s through this active ingredient that allows derm-grade retinoids to increase and restore the production of collagen in the face to noticeably reduce and prevent the look of fine lines and deep wrinkles. Make sure to always use a moisturizer with retinoids. If you’re not sure if you should use retinol before or after moisturizer, check out our blog post.

    DO RETINOL SKINCARE PRODUCTS WORK AS WELL AS RETINOIDS TO HELP RESTORE COLLAGEN?

    While retinol is a type of retinoid, the sad truth is that while it’s been shown to have some benefits in collagen production, it was also found to be very unstable and even degraded over time. So the next time you come across a new retinol skincare product, whether online or in-store, think again about adding it to your cart or basket — chances are you may not be getting the results you’re hoping for.

    Bottom line, if you’re serious about how to naturally restore collagen in your face with skincare, tailored derm-grade retinoids, like Tretinoin, will serve as an ideal solution.

    VITAMIN C

    Vitamin C also serves as a great ally in restoring collagen in your face. It also works to ward off any effects that’ll cause it to further decay. To understand how truly beneficial vitamin C is in preserving and restoring collagen, we’ll break down how it works and how you’ll want to use it.

    First off, vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in our skin which helps to prevent cell damage. It also works to neutralize free radicals found in UV rays. Our skin also relies on it to lay down a strong foundation and generate collagen in the first place. 

    Simply put, no Vitamin C means no collagen production.

    However, even though it’s the most present antioxidant in our skin, we actually can’t produce it on our own. Instead, we receive it through our diet that’s rich in green leafy vegetables and citrus fruits. But here’s the catch — while our body’s getting enough vitamin C through our diet, the antioxidant doesn’t actually make it to our skin when consumed. So, for the purpose of collagen production, applying vitamin C topically onto the skin is the only way to go to restore collagen in the face.

    WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU APPLY VITAMIN C ONTO YOUR SKIN?

    Once applied topically, vitamin C works to stabilize the collagen fibers in your skin which helps to minimize breakdown and promote healthy collagen synthesis. With this support, the look of your skin can be dramatically improved. And since vitamin C is acidic, like your skin’s natural state, it can even work to accelerate the production of collagen and elastin making it the ultimate hero for your skin.

    Another great benefit to applying vitamin C is that it helps to defend skin from free radicals found in pollution and other damaging factors in the atmosphere that can harm the skin’s dermis which affects skin cells, texture, color, moisture barrier, and disrupt collagen development itself. 

    CAN YOU USE RETINOIDS AND VITAMIN C TOGETHER?

    We’ve established that both retinoids and vitamin C are individually phenomenal for promoting collagen production,  but can you use vitamin C with retinol to create the ultimate collagen-boosting routine?

    According to Dr. Sheila Krishna, it’s totally fine to use vitamin C with over-the-counter retinol products or dermatologist-grade retinoids. This study indicated that a combined retinol and vitamin C treatment is effective at treating photoaging and are safe to use together. We still recommend using them at different times of day to prevent irritation. 

    Our suggestion? Using a vitamin C serum in the morning and your chosen retinoid at night will serve as the ultimate ritual for how to restore collagen in the face.

    HOW TO REBUILD COLLAGEN UNDER THE EYES

    As the undereyes are such a delicate area on the skin, is it even worth it to try to rebuild collagen there? If you’re looking to minimize the fine lines around your eyes, you can consider applying retinoids to boost collagen and restore structure to that area — but gradually.

    Instead of diving head-first into using an expensive retinol eye treatment, we recommend starting with a derm-grade retinoid, like Tretinoin, for your face and avoid the eye area entirely for now. You can start with using your retinoid every three days as a part of your nighttime skincare routine then gradually buildup the frequency as your skin starts to adjust.

    Then, after around eight to twelve weeks when you start to see results, that’s when you can start considering whether you need a separate eye serum.

    HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE FOR COLLAGEN TO REGENERATE?

    The key is to be consistent and patient. New collagen production can take up to 4 to 12 weeks to complete. While restoring collagen can help to smooth wrinkles and preserve your firm look, results aren’t permanent, so stay consistent to see continued results.

    HOW TO PREVENT COLLAGEN LOSS

    By providing a healthy environment for your body and skin to operate, you’ll be more equipped to maintain healthy collagen production.

    OUR SOLUTION ON HOW TO RESTORE COLLAGEN IN THE FACE

    If collagen’s been lost in your face, tailored derm-grade retinoids, like Tretinoin, and vitamin C will serve as your ultimate solution for how to naturally restore collagen in the face and preserve it long-term. And you can do so by skipping an in-person trip to your dermatologist. 

    To make derm-grade retinoids more accessible, Dear Brightly connects you with a board-certified doctor for an online consultation to get a tailored Tretinoin serum. Just share details about your skin and your doctor, if appropriate, will prescribe you a tretinoin prescription online — no trip to the doctor’s or pharmacy needed. Then, to complete your skincare routine, you can pair it with Dear Brightly’s vitamin C serum and promote your most firm and protected complexion.

    REFERENCES:

    Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348. doi:10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

    Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. Published 2017 Aug 12. doi:10.3390/nu9080866

    Griffiths CE, Russman AN, Majmudar G, Singer RS, Hamilton TA, Voorhees JJ. Restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin (retinoic acid). N Engl J Med. 1993;329(8):530-535. doi:10.1056/NEJM199308193290803

    Seité S, Bredoux C, Compan D, et al. Histological evaluation of a topically applied retinol-vitamin C combination. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2005;18(2):81-87. doi:10.1159/000083708

    Tretinoin vs Retinol: The Difference Between Retinol and Retinoid

    Your relationship with your skin is personal. What works for someone else won’t necessarily work for you, so if you’re choosing between prescription-strength Tretinoin and over-the-counter retinol, understand the difference before you put something on your face.

    Here’s the scoop: Retinoids are a broader category of skincare topicals that Tretinoin and retinol belong to. Retinoids contain vitamin A derivatives used to improve the texture, tone, and appearance of the skin. In addition to Tretinoin (also known by the brand name Retin-A) and retinol, other popular retinoids on the market include adapalene (Differin), isotretinoin (Accutane), tazarotene, retinyl palmitate, and more.

    Tretinoin is a more potent retinoid than retinol and will show results faster. While these active ingredients both combat signs of photoaging (aka wrinkles, rough skin, uneven skin tone, and enlarged pores), Tretinoin-based products like Night Shift are more effective for fighting acne.

    TRETINOIN VS RETINOL: WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

    Retinol is like the training wheels for Tretinoin and other dermatology-grade retinoids. They have similar benefits and can be used on any skin type, though Tretinoin is more often recommended to treat acne and is FDA approved for photoaging. Tretinoin is the more potent of the two, so it will show results faster.

    before and after

    Ref: Mukherjee S, Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging, Clin Interv Aging, 2006, 1, 327-48, DOI: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

    A major difference between retinol and retinoid is that retinol is an over-the-counter (OTC) retinoid that doesn’t require a written prescription. It’s the precursor to Tretinoin and goes through several conversion steps before it becomes pure Tretinoin. According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Sheila Krishna, “This also makes retinol less stable than Tretinoin and more prone to degradation upon exposure to light and air.” So retinol is less potent than Tretinoin and has a shorter shelf life. Though it’s easily tolerated and less likely to dry out skin than Tretinoin, it may take longer to reach your skin goals.

    Tretinoin (aka retinoic acid) is a prescription retinoid you can get from a doctor. It’s 20 times more potent than OTC retinol and achieves faster results 1. Tretinoin is also the only FDA-approved retinoid to treat photoaging (i.e., premature skin aging due to long-term sun exposure).

    Studies have shown a significant improvement of fine lines and wrinkles after just four weeks of Tretinoin use, while the same level of improvement takes an average of 12 weeks for retinol 2. So you’ll achieve the same level of improvement eventually, but Tretinoin shows results faster.

    Though Tretinoin can be more drying than retinol, a good moisturizer and sunscreen will help maintain skin hydration.

    WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF TRETINOIN AND RETINOL?

    Tretinoin and retinol are both beneficial to improve the appearance of wrinkles, make skin smoother, minimize pores, and improve pigment distribution.

    Tretinoin is also a proven acne-fighter. According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Lana Kashlan, “If you have acne, then there’s no question you absolutely have to use Tretinoin. Retinols really don’t do anything for acne.” This is a huge difference between retinol and retinoid. Treating acne can take some trial and error to get the right products at the right concentrations for your skin, so talk to your dermatologist for help developing the right skincare regimen for acne treatment.

    MINIMIZE FINE LINES AND WRINKLES

    Fine lines and wrinkles are a natural part of aging, but external factors—like sun damage—can speed up their appearance. Tretinoin and retinol excel at counteracting premature wrinkles by accelerating the production of collagen.

    Collagen is a protein that’s responsible for the skin’s structure. After the age of 20, collagen production in the skin drops by about 1% every year. As it does, fine lines and wrinkles appear.

    Retinol and Tretinoin have both been shown to increase collagen in the skin in clinical studies 3. One study found that with daily Tretinoin application, collagen in the skin increased by up to 80% over 10 to 12 months 4.

     

    REDUCE PORE SIZE

    Pores appear larger when they get clogged by dirt, oil, and dead skin cells. By increasing skin cell turnover, Tretinoin and retinol enhance the skin’s ability to exfoliate, clearing that debris and allowing pores to return to their normal size.

    The skincare products and makeup you use can also cause pores to get clogged. So if you’re acne prone, check your products for comedogenic ingredients (aka pore-blocking ingredients) and replace what you can to reduce buildup in the first place.

    Retinoids also reduce the size of the oil gland, meaning less oil production and less buildup—particularly helpful for oily skin.

    IMPROVE SKIN TEXTURE

    Lingering dead skin cells can lead to dry, flaky patches on the skin. The exfoliating powers of Tretinoin and retinol help reduce this layer of dead skin cells, making skin smoother. This is an area where there is not a major difference between retinol and retinoids - they both  improve skin texture.

    Tretinoin and retinol also increase glycosaminoglycan (GAG) 5. A GAG you’re probably familiar with is hyaluronic acid. GAGs play a key role in keeping skin hydrated and making it firmer and more elastic, thereby looking and feeling more smooth.

    EVEN OUT SKIN TONE

    Hyperpigmentation is an increase in melanin production that makes skin tone look uneven or darker than usual. Uneven skin tone can happen with sun exposure, hormonal changes, medications, skin injuries, disease, and aging.

    Retinol and Tretinoin make skin pigmentation more even by dispersing melanin granules 6.

    WHICH ONE SHOULD I USE? - THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RETINOL AND RETINOIDS LIKE TRETINOIN

     

    Tretinoin will get you in the fast lane to clearer, firmer skin with 20 times the potency than retinol 7. But if you don’t want to dive in headfirst, you can start with an over-the-counter retinol product, then step up to something more potent when you feel comfortable.

    If your primary goal is to reduce the effects of photoaging, Dr. Kashlan says, “using an over-the-counter retinol makes sense, especially in the beginning.” Retinol can give your skin a chance to get used to the increased cell turnover and see how your skin reacts.

    But when you buy retinol over the counter, you have no control over the formulation, and it’s hard to figure out the right concentration for your skin. With prescription-grade Tretinoin, your dermatologist can tweak the concentration for your unique skin needs and adjust over time as needed.

    Got sensitive skin? Sensitive skin or people with skin concerns like psoriasis can still benefit from Tretinoin. In fact, it’s a proven part of an effective skincare regimen to treat psoriasis symptoms 8. Just be sure to mention any concerns you have to your dermatologist so they can start you at the right concentration.

    Minimize potential side effects by using moisturizer as part of your morning and nighttime skincare routines and sunscreen when you go out in the sun. And listen to your skin. You can always reduce frequency to let your skin adapt or talk to your dermatologist about lowering the concentration.

    Until now, a big difference between retinol and retinoid was that you could only get retinoids like Tretinoin at an in-person doctor’s consult. But we’ve made it easier than ever to get a prescription-strength formula tailored to your skin from the comfort of your own home with an online consultation.

     

    SUPERCHARGE YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE WITH NIGHT SHIFT

    The most effective retinoid can’t be bought in a store, but getting a doctor’s consult shouldn’t be a pain either. Night Shift is a dermatologist-formulated Tretinoin serum tailored to your skin by doctors online. It contains hyaluronic acid to combat dry skin. Your doctor might even start you on a starter strength if it’s appropriate to give your skin a chance to get used to the increased cell turnover. Perfect for sensitive skin and retinoid newbies.

    Get started by sharing your skin story. A doctor will evaluate your skin profile and write a prescription for your tailored Tretinoin serum, if applicable. Voilà! Your tailored Tretinoin serum will be delivered to you in the mail. Check out our before and after blog to see what’s possible with this magical retinoid!

    Every skin journey is unique, so keep talking to your provider about your experience so they can adjust the formula if needed.

    Got questions? Skincare can be confusing, but we’re here to help. Feel free to reach out at support@dearbrightly.com if you ever want to chat skincare!

    1. Mukherjee, S., et al. (2006, December). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
    2. Mukherjee, S., et al. (2006, December). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
    3. Kong, R., et al. (2015, November 18). A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26578346/
    4. Griffiths, C., et al. (1993, August 19). Restoration of Collagen Formation in Photodamaged Human Skin by Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid). Retrieved from https://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJM199308193290803
    5. Casale, J. & Crane, J.S. (2021, January). Biochemistry, Glycosaminoglycans. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK544295/
    6. Boswell, C.B., MD (2006, March 1). Skincare Science: Update on Topical Retinoids . Retrieved from https://academic.oup.com/asj/article/26/2/233/219113
    7. Mukherjee, S., et al. (2006, December). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
    8. Kaidbey, K.H., MD, et al. (1975, August). Treatment of Psoriasis With Topically Applied Tretinoin and Steroid Ointment. Retrieved from https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamadermatology/article-abstract/535164

     

      The right order: retinol or retinoid before or after moisturizer?

      Think about your skincare routine. If a retinoid is part of that routine, the order you use it in matters and you’re probably asking if you should use retinol before or after a moisturizer. Here is a refresher of the basic steps of taking care of your skin:

      1. Cleanse to remove impurities.
      2. Treat to address specific concerns about your skin.
      3. Protect to maintain your skin’s healthy appearance.

      It all seems so simple, right? Until it isn’t.

      So, what comes first? The retinoid or the moisturizer?

      It’s an age-old debate in the beauty world reminiscent of the chicken or the egg riddle. Let’s solve this skincare riddle together.

      At first glance, it appears you should always use retinoids to treat your skin before applying a moisturizer to protect it. But what if we told you there are some cases where applying a moisturizer first makes sense!  

      We know. It’s mind-blowing, right? 

      Before we dive into the order of applying your skincare products, it’s important to take a closer look at retinoids and why they’re an essential part of your routine.

      Retinoid vs. retinol: What’s the difference? 

      Over the years, retinoids have earned the reputation as “the holy grail of skincare.”

      It’s used to reduce wrinkles and improve skin tone and texture by boosting collagen. In a nutshell, retinoid is a broader term for topical skincare products containing vitamin A derivatives. 

      Retinoids include retinol and Tretinoin: 

      Retinol and Tretinoin have been shown to: 

      While they have similar benefits, dermatology-grade retinoids like Tretinoin yield stronger results over the same period. Initially, you may not notice much from using a retinoid, but skin cell turnover increases over time, leading to smoother skin texture and fewer pigment irregularities that result in a more even tone (more on this later).

      Why you should always pair a retinoid with a moisturizer

      Using a moisturizer isn’t something you should only do in reaction to dry skin. It should be incorporated into your daily and nightly skincare routine. This is something that should become as second nature as brushing your teeth.

      During the first month of using retinoids, the skin goes through a process called retinization, an adjustment period when your skin is adapting to a retinoid treatment. You always want to use a moisturizer when applying your retinoid to prevent dryness and reduce the risk of irritation during retinization. 

      While going through this process, the skin may become irritated, resulting in: 

      The good news is, if you do encounter these symptoms, they don’t last forever. Your skin will eventually get used to the treatment and this process of retinization will slowly happen less frequently.

      One study shows that skin irritation can be relieved by using a gentle moisturizing cream, which provided a significant improvement in:

      Long-term use of a moisturizer may also delay photoaging. Regardless of your skin type or which product you use first, a layer of moisturizer should always be applied after retinoids. 

      Skincare product layering 101

      Taking proper care of your skin is a process that requires consistency and patience. You probably already know that you should never skip a step in your skincare routine because it won’t deliver the results you want. When it comes to retinoids, this is no exception. 

      Applying your serums and moisturizers in the correct order will give you better results.  Before we get into the specifics about when to apply a retinoid, let’s discuss four rules of product layering:

      The rules of product layering suggest that a retinoid should be applied before a moisturizer, but the truth is — it depends. Before we dive into the order of application, it’s important to note that a retinoid should only be applied at night because they make your skin more sensitive to the sun.  

      Another thing to note is the importance of building a tolerance for retinoids slowly. The first week, you might apply your product every other day or even three times per week because your skin needs time to adjust. 

      After about four weeks of use (or when your skin starts getting used to the treatment), you can increase the frequency until you find what works best for your unique skin type. This varies from person to person, but you may start seeing results in six weeks after sticking with it consistently! 

      And after six months of retinoid use, you may see a significant reduction in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation (skin darkening). Remember, this is a marathon, not a sprint. 

      Any side effects you experience while using a retinoid is temporary. Staying consistent with your skincare routine long term will help you maintain healthy, naturally glowing skin for life. 

      Now, let’s look at some of the recommendations for when to apply a retinoid.

      The routine order for applying retinoid

      To help your retinoid work better, some dermatologists recommend applying it directly after cleansing before any other treatment serum or moisturizer.  

      Here are the steps commonly recommended for a nightly skincare routine including a retinoid:

      1. Wash your face and dry it completely. This is important because the retinoid will be able to absorb more deeply into your skin when it’s wet, possibly causing irritation.
      2. Dab a pea-sized amount of retinoid serum onto your forehead, cheeks, and chin, then pat into the skin. Do not use more as it will increase your risk of dryness, irritation and redness. Less is more when it comes to applying a retinoid. Dabbing is a gentler, less irritating way to apply a serum.
      3. Apply a moisturizer to prevent dryness and irritation. Don’t skip this step because retinoids may make your skin dry until it builds a tolerance. 

      When is it okay to apply moisturizer before retinoid?

      While moisturizing before applying a retinoid is a common practice, it does not work well for everyone! 

      Some dermatologists recommend applying a moisturizer first and then the retinoid. This is because some people’s skin could be too dry or sensitive to apply it before any other products — especially if using a higher-strength product. 

      If you’re starting out using retinoids or have sensitive skin, it’s probably best if you start by moisturizing first. This will help soothe any potential dryness and irritation from using this ingredient for the first time. 

      Some people with sensitive skin may find that using their retinoid causes irritation, redness, and peeling. Applying your moisturizer first creates an extra layer between your skin and the retinoid. This will reduce dryness while still allowing the retinoid to do its thing! 

      If you’re looking to experiment with moisturizing before and after applying a retinoid, the “sandwich” method may be just what your skin needs! Taking this approach allows you to enjoy the benefits of using a retinoid while reducing the risk of skin irritation. 

      Here is what a skincare routine using this method looks like:

      1. Wash your face.
      2. Apply moisturizer, then let it set in and absorb into the skin.
      3. After 20 minutes, apply a pea-sized amount of your retinoid.
      4. Apply another layer of moisturizer.

      Another option is to mix your retinoid with a moisturizer. Doing this will hydrate your skin and act as a buffer by diluting the retinoid and making it more tolerable.

      If you’re wondering if applying moisturizer before a retinoid reduces its effectiveness, studies show this isn’t the case. It actually makes a retinoid more tolerable to the skin.

      Types of moisturizers to use (and avoid) when using retinoids

      Applying moisturizer is a crucial step in any skincare routine. But it’s even more important when you’re using retinoids. Using the right moisturizer will help:

      As you can see, a moisturizer not only hydrates your skin but also helps maintain and protect it. When it comes to finding the best moisturizer to hydrate your skin, you want to look for moisturizers that contain emollient, occlusive, and humectant ingredients.  

      These are some of the ingredients you want in a moisturizer, but there are also some you want to avoid. Avoid products that contain any actives like alpha or beta hydroxy acids, which can dry and irritate the skin when used with retinoids.

      Take the guesswork out of your skincare routine with Night Shift

      If you’re looking for a retinoid that’s tailored to your skin, Dear Brightly’s Night Shift is a dermatologist-formulated Tretinoin serum tailored for you by doctors online. 

      This serum contains hyaluronic acid to draw in moisture and combat dryness, minimizing the side effects of starting retinoids. The process of getting a retinoid tailored for you is simple. We also have a set available that includes a moisturizer that complements retinoid use, making it convenient to get it all in one place.

      When it comes to solving the riddle of what comes first in your skincare routine, one thing is clear.

      There’s no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to skincare. 

      The order you apply your retinoid depends on its strength and your skin’s sensitivity. But the one thing that anyone using retinoids should always include in their skincare routine is a gentle moisturizer that will help keep the skin healthy and hydrated.  

      Choosing the skincare products that are right for you is personal. That’s why we’re committed to making the process less overwhelming and more empowering. 

      We’re here to help you find the right products for your skin goals and lifestyle every step of the way! Still have questions? Let us know because we’re here to help.

      References:

      Draelos ZD, Ertel KD, Berge CA. Facilitating facial retinization through barrier improvementCutis. 2006;78(4):275-281.

      Hong, Seung Phil; Choe, Sung Jay; Yoo, Jiyeon; Jin, Eun Mi; Seo, Hee Seok; Ahn, Sung-Ku. Protective effect of moisturizers on photoaging. Journal of Dermatological Science. 2017;86(2):e48–. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2017.02.141 

      Laquieze S, Czernielewski J, Rueda MJ. Beneficial effect of a moisturizing cream as adjunctive treatment to oral isotretinoin or topical tretinoin in the management of acneJ Drugs Dermatol. 2006;5(10):985-990.

      Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyClin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348. doi:10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

      Alan S. Boyd. An overview of the retinoids. 1989;86(5):0–574. doi:10.1016/0002-9343(89)90386-0 

      The why and how to apply moisturizer

      Treating dry skin sounds as simple as just drinking more water, right? Although dehydration may be a factor that contributes to dry skin, applying a moisturizer is also necessary. External treatment is just as important as internal treatment, and keeping your skin moisturized is much more than just making it look not dry. The benefits of having a good moisturizer on hand now will help the appearance and health of your skin in the future.

      Doing more than just moisturizing

      A moisturizer is a topical treatment, most likely in the form of a cream or serum, that is applied on the skin to maintain the functions of the skin barrier and to help prevent dry skin. Dry skin is more than just bothersome in appearance, but it can also lead to other issues that inhibit the role that the skin plays to protect us.

      Why does your skin get dry?

      When your skin is dry, you will probably notice that the skin feels tight, not so supple, and may even be flaky.

      The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of our skin. Although made up of dead skin cells, the stratum corneum acts as a barrier between your body and the outside world, preventing harmful materials from entering and water from escaping.

      The structure of this outermost layer of the epidermis includes certain lipids. When the skin is dry, there is a depletion of these lipids that help make up the stratum corneum and the skin loses its functions to retain water within the skin.

      Dry skin is relatively normal and can be due to a variety of different factors. Environmental and internal stressors as well as a combination of the two can result in dry skin. Being in extreme climates and stressful situations can exasperate the look and feel of dry skin.

      How does moisturizer work on the skin?

      Moisturizer does not simply add hydration to the skin. Rather, it helps to maintain and protect the skin by preventing or reducing transepidermal water loss, or the amount of water that evaporates from the skin. This in turn helps the skin to rehydrate from within.

      Properties of moisturizer and its benefits

      Smooths and softens

      As mentioned before, moisturizer does not necessarily add any hydration or water to the skin. However, by preventing water from being evaporated from the skin, moisturizer helps the skin visibly look smoother and softer. There are specific types of moisturizers that work specifically with the lipids in our stratum corneum, filling in gaps and improving the feel of the skin. Continuous application of the moisturizer may be necessary.

      Increases skin hydration (from within)

      An obvious benefit to moisturizing the skin is skin hydration. Applying moisturizer leaves behind a film that acts as an artificial barrier to retain water within the skin. The moisturizer prevents water from evaporating from the skin. This in turn helps to eventually repair the damaged and dry stratum corneum. The best moisturizers that help with skin hydration will contain occlusive and humectant ingredients.

      Prevents and treats photoaging (premature skin aging)

      While aging is natural, maintaining the skin’s integrity helps prevent premature skin aging. You may start to notice signs of premature skin aging as the skin starts to lose its elasticity, becomes dull, and even rough in texture. Moisturizer is just one step in preventing and treating the first signs of photoaging.

      Side effects

      Most moisturizers should not cause you to have any side effects. However, it is always a good idea to test any new product on a patch of skin first before using it regularly. To reduce the probability of any irritation, you should definitely check the ingredients of the moisturizer before you purchase. Parabens, artificial colors or dyes, and fragrances are ingredients to look out for in moisturizers you would want to avoid.

      What to look for in a (effective) moisturizer

      Within the stratum corneum, ceramides are the main lipid that make up the lipid bilayers in its structure. Therefore, ceramide cream is one of the most common and beneficial in promoting the replenishment of ceramides within the stratum corneum to preserve its functions in retaining the appearance and feel of the skin. 

      Your moisturizer should be all about improving the barrier function of the skin and enhancing the skin’s hydration retention. There are different classifications for moisturizers that you may want to be aware of based on your skin needs. Each class works in a different way and may be present in a variety of combinations within a moisturizer to treat dry skin. How do each of these types of moisturizers work?

      Emollients

      Emollients are most likely to be used in many everyday skin care routines. Emollients consist of lipids and oils that work to improve the appearance and feel of the skin, by smoothing, softening, and improving the elasticity of the skin. By introducing these lipids to the skin, the stratum corneum’s function in acting as a barrier is repaired. 

      Squalane is an example of a specific emollient that also has occlusive properties. Squalane is another lipid that is present in the skin. Even though it is naturally occurring, the production of squalane greatly decreases after the age of thirty, further exasperating the frequency of dry skin. Luckily, squalane can be derived from plant and animal sources and is commonly used as the main ingredient in moisturizers. Although technically an oil, squalane does not have an oily feeling.

      Humectants

      Humectants work by attracting water from within and the environment. There are a variety of humectants that work to strengthen the lipid barrier and keep the skin hydrated. Because humectants work by enhancing water absorption, possibly from the environment, it can also lose water easily to the environment. Therefore, humectants work best when combined with occlusives.

      Occlusives

      Occlusives are utilized to physically block or prevent the loss of water from the skin. Occlusives create a barrier over the skin that repels or does not mix with water. Although this might sound counterintuitive, occlusives keep the skin hydrated by preventing water vapor from escaping, especially when applied onto slightly damp skin after a face wash. The only caveat with occlusives is that products that fall under this category may have an odor and/or greasy feeling (ex. petroleum jelly).

      How to apply

      Different moisturizers will most likely have different instructions on how to and how much to apply. It would also be helpful to note if the moisturizer you are using will fit into the current skin care routine you have at the moment. Make sure that the moisturizer you use will not react negatively with any other products you are using.

      Using a moisturizer with retinoids

      Moisturizer is incredibly important to apply alongside your retinoid treatment. Having a moisturizer that improves the stratum corneum’s barrier function will help with the skin’s response to the retinoid treatment.

      Skinship, the moisturizer that Dear Brightly has formulated is meant to be used with your retinoid serum. The derm-tested moisturizer works in tandem with your retinoid cream to decrease your skin’s sensitivity to the treatment, while reducing redness, smoothing, softening, and improving your skin’s hydration. 

      Drink water. Keep moisturized. Stay hydrated.

      References:

      Zhang S, Duan E. Fighting against Skin Aging: The Way from Bench to BedsideCell Transplant. 2018;27(5):729-738. doi:10.1177/0963689717725755

      Ganceviciene R, Liakou AI, Theodoridis A, Makrantonaki E, Zouboulis CC. Skin anti-aging strategiesDermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):308-319. doi:10.4161/derm.22804

      Hong, Seung Phil; Choe, Sung Jay; Yoo, Jiyeon; Jin, Eun Mi; Seo, Hee Seok; Ahn, Sung-Ku. Protective effect of moisturizers on photoaging. Journal of Dermatological Science. 2017; 86(2): e48–. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2017.02.141 

      Sethi A, Kaur T, Malhotra SK, Gambhir ML. Moisturizers: The Slippery RoadIndian J Dermatol. 2016;61(3):279-287. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.182427

      Spada F, Barnes TM, Greive KA. Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsClin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:491-497. Published 2018 Oct 15. doi:10.2147/CCID.S177697

      Physical vs Chemical Sunscreen: What Derms Recommend

      By now, it is well known that sunscreen is a necessary part of any skin care routine. Using sunscreen on a daily basis can help protect your skin from skin cancer and photoaging. But how do you know which type of sunscreen you should be using? Below, we discuss what board-certified dermatologists Dr. Sheila Krishna and Dr. Lana Kashlan say about physical vs chemical sunscreen and why physical sunscreen is the way to go.

      Why Do We Need Sunscreen?

      We’ve all grown up knowing that we have to use sunscreen at the beach but, for some, it takes a bit more getting used to as daily skincare practice. Sunscreen, however, is one of the most important steps that we can take to protect our skin because of its ability to prevent skin cancer. Sunscreen blocks ultraviolet radiation, and can reduce the incidence of both melanoma and non-melanoma types of skin cancer. This makes it one of our most powerful tools in protecting ourselves from harmful rays.

      In addition to skin cancer prevention, sunscreen plays an important role in preventing photoaging. Over time, exposure to the sun can cause fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and rough or uneven skin textures. Sunscreen helps to protect your skin from overexposure and premature aging, giving you that coveted dewy skin glow.

      Physical vs Chemical Sunscreen

      There are two general categories of sunscreen–physical sunscreen and chemical sunscreen–and it can be challenging to understand which one is the best choice for you. While you could try googling ‘physical vs chemical sunscreen reddit,’ we’d recommend taking a dermatologist’s advice over random people on the internet.

      Physical sunscreen, also known as mineral sunscreen, is typically associated with the thick, white creams that we used as kids. Consequently, chemical sunscreens have gained popularity in recent years because they tend to have thinner formulas that absorb into your skin and provide a lighter base for other products.

      The consistency, however, isn’t the only difference between physical and chemical sunscreen. The key distinction between the two types is actually in the way that they work. Physical sunscreen sits on top of your skin, acting as a shield against the harmful UV rays. The minerals reflect and scatter the sun’s rays away from your skin, preventing sun damage. 

      This physical barrier is incredibly effective at protecting the skin, which is why mineral sunscreens are still preferred by most dermatologists. While people have long associated physical sunscreens with an ashy residue, they have come a long way since our youth and there are now plenty that go on clear. 

      Chemical sunscreen, on the other hand, absorbs the UV rays and prevents damage to the skin through a chemical reaction that turns the rays into heat that is then released through the skin. As mentioned above, chemical sunscreens are lighter than their mineral counterparts, largely because they are intended to be absorbed into the skin instead of sitting on top as a barrier. 

      There are some issues with chemical sunscreens, however. Primarily, they can cause irritation for some people. Additionally, there are concerns about how environmentally friendly many chemical sunscreens are. Studies have shown that chemical sunscreens can remain in water sources, even after it is filtered, and there is concern that they can cause damage to coral reefs. Now, is chemical sunscreen bad? Not necessarily, it’s just not what many dermatologists recommend. 

      What to Look for When Choosing a Sunscreen

      There are a number of things that you want to look for when choosing a sunscreen. The most important place to start is making sure that you’re buying a sunscreen that is full spectrum or  broad spectrum. This just means that the sunscreen will protect you from both UVA and UVB rays. Some sunscreens can only guarantee protection from one type of ultraviolet rays, which means you won’t be getting the full bang for your buck! This is why a broad spectrum sunscreen is a must have. 

      Secondly, you want to make sure that you’re getting sunscreen that is at least 30 SPF or higher. An SPF of 30 will block 97% of the sun’s harmful rays so as long as you’re in that range, you should be good. This is especially important if you’re going to be outside for extended periods of time. 

      There are also a few key physical sunscreen ingredients to look for. According to Dr. Sheila Krishna, for “mineral sunscreen, [ingredients] such as zinc, titanium or ferric oxides” are ideal. Even better, “[t]hese are (mainly) reef and body safe.”

      In addition to zinc oxide, or other minerals that block UV rays, physical sunscreens generally have very few other ingredients. Often there will be a base of jojoba or coconut oil to allow for easy application and moisturizing. 

      Chemical sunscreens usually have much longer ingredient lists, which is one of the reasons that they tend to be more irritating. Some of the ingredients you may see in chemical sunscreens include: oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, or octinoxate. Some of these ingredients have been banned in certain parts of the world because of the environmental damage they may cause. So what’s the best chemical sunscreen? Well, it’s the one that you’ll wear and doesn’t irritate your skin, but this might take some trial and error. 

      Finally, it is typically a good idea to look for water resistant sunscreens, especially if you’re going to be swimming. Water resistance helps the sunscreen last longer before reapplication is needed. Physical sunscreen in particular is more prone to getting rubbed or washed off, so water resistance is key.

      Why Sunscreen is Important When Using Retinoids

      Retinoids are another great tool for preventing or reducing the effects of photoaging such as fine lines, dark spots, and uneven skin texture. But they can also make you more sensitive to the sun, since they work by removing oils and dry skin cells from the surface of your skin. This is why applying sunscreen daily is extra important when you’re using a retinoid cream. 

      Physical sunscreens that contain zinc or titanium oxide will also be the better choice if you are using retinoids. Because they sit on top of the skin and act as a protective barrier, they are less likely to cause any irritation because they don’t get absorbed into the skin.

      How to Use Sunscreen With Retinoids

      Whenever you are using retinoids, you’ll want to apply a small, pea sized portion on clean, dry skin at night before bed. If you are new to using retinoids, it’s best to start by applying the cream only a few times a week and work up to daily application. 

      15-20 minutes after applying the retinoid cream, you should apply a moisturizer. This helps to immediately replenish cells and rebuild moisture as you sleep. 

      Dermatologists also recommend applying a sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher daily when using retinoids. As discussed above, this is generally a good practice, whether or not you’re using retinoids, but it is especially important if you are using them. Because retinoids may temporarily strip down some of the skin’s natural barriers, applying a layer of sunscreen every 1-2 hours is key to ensuring that you’re not overexposing your skin to harmful UV rays and putting yourself at risk for more photoaging effects!

      How to Properly Use Sunscreen

      One of the number one reasons that people report low satisfaction with sunscreen, is improper application. While you don’t need to go crazy in applying it, you probably do need to use a bit more sunscreen than you think to ensure that you’re really covering any skin that might be exposed to the sun. 

      While the frequency of application will depend on what you’re doing, if you’re going to be out in the sun the entire day, you should plan to reapply every 1-2 hours. If you’re swimming or engaging in physical activity where you’re sweating a lot, you may need to reapply more frequently. 

      Because physical sunscreen rests on top of the skin instead of being absorbed into it, it is also best to give it about 20-30 minutes to dry before leaving the house in the morning or engaging in any activities that could cause it to rub off. 

      You can also use chemical and physical sunscreen together if you so choose. Some people prefer this method for extra protection because physical sunscreen does tend to come off more easily than chemical sunscreen since it isn’t being absorbed into the skin. However, this isn’t really necessary if you’re getting a good physical sunscreen and remember to reapply a few times throughout the day. 

      So what’s the verdict? When considering mineral vs chemical sunscreen, dermatologists tend to go for mineral sunscreen. “I prefer physical sunscreens,” says Dr. Lana Kashlan, “they’re the best at blocking UVA and UVB completely, zinc oxide is gold standard.”

      It’s hard to argue with that endorsement. Dear Brightly’s new derm-tested, SPF 30 mineral sunscreen, NeverSkip, has everything you need. Try it today, we promise you won’t be disappointed.

      References:

      Sander M, Sander M, Burbidge T, Beecker J. The efficacy and safety of sunscreen use for the prevention of skin cancerCMAJ. 2020;192(50):E1802-E1808. doi:10.1503/cmaj.201085

      Shanbhag S, Nayak A, Narayan R, Nayak UY. Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in CosmeticsAdv Pharm Bull. 2019;9(3):348-359. doi:10.15171/apb.2019.042

      What Is Niacinamide? The Lowdown on This Superstar Skincare Ingredient

      Niacinamide has taken the world by storm, flaunting a plethora of skin benefits—from smoothing wrinkles and evening skin tone to treating skin conditions like acne, eczema, and rosacea. But is it truly effective or just another fad?

      The truth is, niacinamide has a ton of studies backing up these benefits. And it’s kind of a unicorn of a skincare product: It has a low risk of irritation while still delivering powerful results. Everyone’s skin is different, so whether an ingredient is popular or not, you need to make sure it fits into the right skincare routine for your skin. But it’s worth considering adding niacinamide as a skincare staple. But before you do, you should know its benefits and how to integrate it into your routine for the most impact.

      What is niacinamide?

      Niacinamide (also known as nicotinamide) is a form of vitamin B3 (niacin) and is used as a topical in skincare. It’s a water-soluble vitamin, so our bodies mostly don’t produce niacin on their own. We can convert some tryptophan into niacin1, but primarily, we need to consume vitamin B3 through foods or supplements. Or, in the case of our skin, we can use it as a topical to send the benefits of niacin right where we want them.

      While niacinamide is generally used for skincare, nicotinic acid (the other main form of niacin) is found in food and supplements. When used as a topical, nicotinic acid is more likely to cause irritation and flushed skin2, so you want to avoid that in any vitamin B3 creams or serums. Niacinamide, on the other hand, has a low chance of irritation, so it’s better suited to skincare.

      What are the benefits of niacinamide?

      As a skincare ingredient, niacinamide benefits all skin types. And we are here for it.

      Smooths fine lines and wrinkles

      Niacinamide plays an important role in reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

      Wrinkles in the face are linked to collagen health. Collagen serves as a flexible, supple support network in the skin. When collagen production drops (a natural process of aging) or collagen health isn’t maintained, wrinkles and fine lines form.

      Oxidative stress as we age causes collagen to break down and collagen production to drop3. Niacinamide is an antioxidant, so it’s ideal for counteracting oxidative stress, thereby supporting collagen health. Studies show that niacinamide increases antioxidants in the skin4 and stimulates collagen production. Say goodbye to premature skin aging.

      Repairs the effects of sun damage

      According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, “About 90 percent of nonmelanoma skin cancers are associated with exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun.” Additionally, “skin cancer is the most common cancer in the United States.” So, we need to protect our skin from the harmful effects of UV rays that we’re inevitably exposed to.

      Sunscreen, while important, only provides partial protection from the effects of sunlight5. Niacinamide can prevent UV damage6 and repair DNA7 after sun exposure, making it a great complement to your SPF.

      Eases skin sensitivity

      If you have sensitive skin or if you’re getting used to a new skincare regimen that’s making your skin more sensitive, niacinamide may help reduce redness8 and ease irritation.

      Niacinamide thickens the outer layer of your skin9 (also known as the skin barrier), which provides more protection against irritants.

      So if you’re concerned about skin sensitivity while starting a new skin treatment (such as with retinol or retinoids), adding niacinamide can help counteract some of the side effects as your skin adapts to your new regimen.

      Remedies sallow skin

      Sallow skin, or yellowing of the skin, can be improved with niacinamide. Skin sallowing is due to something called the Maillard reaction, which is one of the oxidative processes that occur in the skin10. It’s a natural process of aging. One study showed that niacinamide significantly reduced sallowness over a 12-week trial11.

      Evens skin pigmentation

      Hyperpigmentation (aka uneven skin tone) shows up as melasma, freckles, or dark spots or patches. Niacinamide can help make skin pigment more even. It works by inhibiting the enzymes involved in melanin production12.

      It’s a comparable treatment for melasma to the more traditional hydroquinone with fewer side effects13. Another study found niacinamide to be effective for decreasing hyperpigmentation in Japanese women14.

      Treats acne

      Treating breakout-prone skin often takes some experimentation to find what works for you. Antibiotics are a crucial part of some treatment plans to keep acne-causing bacteria from returning. Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties, so it can take the place of other antibiotics in treating acne.

      Clindamycin is one antibiotic often used in acne treatments, but it has a risk of creating bacterial resistance. In other words, the bacteria on your skin can become resistant to clindamycin and stick around. Niacinamide doesn’t have the risk of creating bacterial resistance, so it’ll continue to fight acne. In comparing niacinamide to clindamycin, one clinical trial found that it was just as effective, if not more, at improving inflammatory acne15.

      Shrinks pores by regulating oil production

      Enlarged pores are caused by the build-up of oil (sebum), dead skin cells, and other debris in the pores. When you reduce build-up, pores can shrink back to their original size. Niacinamide helps by slowing down oil production16, so there’s less build-up.

      What are the side effects of niacinamide?

      Good news: There are virtually no side effects to using this superstar skincare ingredient. Niacinamide is generally non-irritating for most people17, while others will experience a small amount of irritation that will subside with consistent use.

      The higher the concentration, though, the more risk you run of experiencing redness or dermatitis. Most studies have been with formulations of 2–5% niacinamide. So, even though there are serums on the market in the 15–20% range, 5% is plenty to reap the benefits of this amazing active ingredient.

      How to integrate niacinamide into your skincare routine

      While other skincare actives can be delicate, niacinamide is a stable compound. It won’t likely be affected by your other skincare ingredients, light, or oxidation. You can use niacinamide products whenever it’s convenient for you. But there are a couple of reasons you should consider it as part of your nighttime skincare regimen.

      Pop quiz: Remember the relationship between niacinamide and UV rays? Niacinamide can repair DNA and prevent UV damage after sun exposure. So it’s ideal for nourishing your skin at the end of the day.

      It’s commonly thought that niacinamide and vitamin C don’t mix, but that could be a myth. Beauty publication Byrdie interviewed cosmetic chemist Perry Romanowski on the matter. He says those claims are based on outdated research. So if you want to use niacinamide and vitamin C at the same time, the two are unlikely to have an adverse reaction. Regardless, vitamin C is better suited to your morning routine to prep your skin for UV exposure.

      As always, start slow and with a low concentration to see how your skin reacts. Some people start seeing results in as little as two weeks, but it could take 8–12 weeks to see significant results.

      What to look for in a niacinamide serum

      You can get niacinamide as a stand-alone serum or get a moisturizing cream with niacinamide in it. But we always recommend getting a serum separate from your lotions and other actives. By separating your actives, you can get the right concentration of each for your skin. Plus, by having a neutral moisturizer, you can use it as needed without worrying if you’re using your actives too frequently.

      Most studies have been done with concentrations of 2–5% niacinamide, so you really don’t need anything above that to get the benefits. 10% is a pretty common concentration, but if you have sensitive skin, you might want to start lower with a lower strength. At 15% or higher, you’re more likely to get irritated skin.

      Niacinamide and retinol (and retinoids)

      Niacinamide also plays well with retinoids. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives like retinol and tretinoin that treat photoaging. When starting a new retinol or retinoid treatment, it’s not uncommon to have slight irritation and dryness as your skin adapts. By adding niacinamide to your regimen, you can lessen irritation and dry skin18 vs. using retinol or derm-grade retinoids alone.

      Apply niacinamide after your cleanser and before your retinoid serum as part of your nighttime skincare routine. This will give the outer layer of your skin a protective barrier, but the retinoids will still be able to permeate your pores where they can work their magic.

      By using retinoids and niacinamide together, you can fast-track your way to healthier, smoother skin. This combo complements each other by tackling the same problems from different angles. While retinol and derm-grade retinoids clear pore build-up (including oil, dead skin cells, and comedogenic products), niacinamide reduces oil production. Retinoids fight acne by reducing comedones and microcomedones, while niacinamide helps kill bacteria. And retinoids disperse melanin while niacinamide regulates melanin production. They are the skincare power duo to help you reach your goals with less irritation.

      The derm-grade retinoid to use with niacinamide

      Night Shift is a dermatology-grade retinoid serum custom-tailored to your skin by certified dermatologists. It uses tretinoin—the only FDA-approved retinoid for photoaging—and an ingredient that is 20x more potent than retinol. It’s formulated with hydrating hyaluronic acid to reduce irritation.

      After sharing your skin story, a provider will determine the right concentration of tretinoin for your skin. Then, your tailored retinoid serum will be delivered by mail.

      If you have sensitive skin or are new to retinoids, your provider might give you a starter strength to give your skin a chance to adapt before ramping you up to a higher strength. You get the convenience of a doctor’s consult online without the cost of an in-person consult.

      Try Night Shift

      Skincare can be confusing to navigate, so if you have any questions, feel free to reach out. We’re always here to help.


      1. Cherney, K. (2018, August 29). Everything You Should Know About Niacinamide. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/niacinamide
      2. Levin, J., DO, & Momin, S., DO. (2010, February). How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921764/
      3. Tu, Y., & Quan, T. (2016, August 05). Oxidative stress and human skin connective tissue aging. Retrieved from https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/3/3/28
      4. Levin, J., DO, & Momin, S., DO. (2010, February). How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921764/
      5. Damian, D. (2010, February 08). Photoprotective effects of nicotinamide. Retrieved from https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2010/PP/b9pp00146h#!divAbstract
      6. Damian, D. (2010, February 08). Photoprotective effects of nicotinamide. Retrieved from https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2010/PP/b9pp00146h#!divAbstract
      7. DL;, T. (2014, July). Nicotinamide enhances repair of ultraviolet radiation-induced dna damage in primary melanocytes. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24798949/
      8. Bissett, D. L., et al. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18492135/
      9. Levin, J., DO, & Momin, S., DO. (2010, February). How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921764/
      10. Levin, J., DO, & Momin, S., DO. (2010, February). How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921764/
      11. Bissett, D. L., et al. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18492135/
      12. Sarkar, R., & Et al. (2013, January). Cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation: What is available? Retrieved June 07, 2021, from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3663177/
      13. Navarrete-Solís, J. et al. A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of Niacinamide 4% versus Hydroquinone 4% in the treatment Of melasma. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21822427/
      14. Hakozaki, T., et al. (2002, July). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180/
      15. Shalita, A. R., et al. (1995, June). Topical nicotinamide compared with clindamycin gel in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7657446/
      16. Zoe, D. D., et al. (2006, June). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16766489/
      17. International Journal of Toxicology. (2005, September 1). Final report of the safety assessment of Niacinamide and Niacin1. Retrieved from https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1080/10915810500434183
      18. Song, X., et al. (2008, August 01). Nicotinamide attenuates Aquaporin 3 overexpression induced by retinoic acid through inhibition of EGFR/ERK in cultured human Skin keratinocytes. Retrieved from https://www.spandidos-publications.com/ijmm/22/2/229/abstract

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